I've stayed in quite a few hotels in the Spanish capital over the course of several decades. Each of those hotels was just fine, and some were better than "fine." But I never returned to any of them for a second time--I always sought something "better." I knew I had found that "better place" a year ago, the moment the glass doors parted at Calle Orfila, #6, to reveal the elegant lobby of the Hotel Orfila, which would become my Madrid "home away from home." Last year's stay was perfect and I am now ensconced here for the second time--a 5-night stay-- that has proved to be even more pleasurable than the first. Hotel Orfila is an intimate family-run hotel that has been honored, for obvious reasons, with the prestigious Relais & Chateaux designation. Rooms are lovely renditions of Old World style, furnished with antiques and exquisite textiles--wallpaper, carpets, upholstery on the comfortable sofas and chairs dotting the room. Rear-facing rooms overlook the gorgeous garden where guests can dine or relax under a delicate hand-painted mural. In all the nights I've spent here, I've yet to hear ANY outdoor noise. Beds are so comfortable I wish I could tuck one in my suitcase and position its in my Manhattan bedroom. Embroidered soft white sheets of impeccable quality, velvet blackout curtains, linen and cotton toweling and robes.....all of the plush amenities one would expect in a 5-star Grand Luxe hotel contribute to the ambience. There is nothing lacking!! And if there is something you need, staff will magically make it appear within what seems like seconds--extra towels, extra Nespresso pods, even assistance with packing purchases for the plane, or for express delivery overseas.... Last year when I found my suitcase could not accommodate one more items, the delightful Bellboy, Frank, took it upon himself to provide a carton, bubble wrap, and tape, and the front desk, manned by the kind and efficient Bruce, arranged delivery to the US by fast courier at a most reasonable cost. To Frank, to Bruce, to "Heathcliff," and to Axel--at front of house, and to Yunes and Laura in the breakfast restaurant, and the others whose names I neglect to mention here, you have my heartfelt thanks for a most memorable stay at the Orfila. And speaking of breakfast: The vast buffet consisting of impeccable sourced regional foods, from fruits to cheeses to meats and smoked fish, complimented by artisanal breads and pastries and my personal favorites: Migas and Tortilla Espanola, almost eliminates the need for eating later in the day. But if you prefer a made-to order hot breakfast: Eggs Benedict, omelettes, oatmeal--just about any food you can imagine, just say the word. The coffee is excellent and it's lovely to begin the day with a flute of Cava! The hotel restaurant is under the helm of two-star Michelin Chef Mario Sandoval, and there is a lovely and intimate bar that offers a cozy space for a nightcap or snack. Special thanks to Manager A