I have grave misgivings about hotels in the busiest parts of the Lake District, especially at holiday times. Obviously they will be relentlessly overcrowded, with harassed and unfriendly staff. I’ve wanted to go back to the Proper Lake District for a while though so took a risk on the King’s Head. It’s easy to find on the ear popping main road up from Grasmere, just beyond the impressive hulk of Steel Fell, close to Thirlemere. Parking anywhere in the Lakes is hideous and expensive. Not here. Relaxed and plenty of room. It’s a long building with a pleasant bar restaurant area and beer garden. I found a rather pleasant residents lounge where a lady called Jo checked me in and made me feel welcome. It does get busy with passing trade but the staff look after their residents. They flogged me decent real ale and Jura whisky (the proper stuff). Breakfast is briskly table served from a menu and is well presented. I didn’t eat otherwise there but the food is popular and well priced. The road outside is busy and a bit of a racetrack, and the occasional fighter jet roars between the mountains on low altitude practice, but the relentless bleating of the sheep opposite soon returns things to normal. I was a little sorry to depart, but the manager said he hoped I would come again. I believe I will, and will even bring my wife.
