A truly atmospheric historic ryokan (founded in 1867, the bathhouse rebuilt in 1915) with its famous 1,000-person wooden mixed bath (seninburo) in the sukiya style, crafted from Japanese hinoki cypress.
A huge indoor kon'eku bath is open 24 hours a day, with towels provided for women upon request. The bath has variable depths, approximately 50-120 cm in different areas, and is hot. A warm bath (36-38°C) is located behind a partition.
There's also a kashikiri in a separate pavilion; you can get a vacancy/occupancy sign at reception.
Rooms traditionally don't have their own shower; they're located in the onsen.
The ryokan currently doesn't have its own kitchen, so we booked our room without breakfast and dinner. A 7-11 ten minutes' walk away and a microwave on the ground floor saved us. There are almost no places to grab a bite in the evening in the town. Despite some minor flaws, it's a truly wonderful place and the staff really try their best.
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