Circumambulating Mount Kailash: Finding Answers for the Soul at the Center of the World
At Drolma La Pass, 5,700 meters above sea level, every breath felt like swallowing shards of glass. But when I saw prayer flags fluttering wildly in the wind, all the hardship turned into tears.
At four in the morning, the night sky over Darchen was still a dense sea of stars. The beam of my headlamp swayed on the gravel path, and with every step on the 4,600-meter-high ground, my breath turned to white mist. Tibetan pilgrims performing prostrations passed by, bowing every three steps, their bodies rising and falling between heaven and earth. The sound of their thick yak-hide aprons rubbing against the sand and stones became the most moving rhythm in that silent dawn.
This was my first day of kora, aiming to complete the 53-kilometer circumambulation route around Mount Kailash. Mount Kailash is not the highest peak in the area, but its unique character makes it instantly recognizable – its shape resembles a rounded pyramid, with four symmetrical faces. The vertical ice grooves and horizontal rock layers on its summit form a clear 'swastika' symbol.
01 The Center of the World, a Confluence of Multiple Faiths
Before reaching the sacred mountain, I found it hard to imagine a snow-capped peak being simultaneously recognized as the center of the world by four major religions. Tibetan Buddhism considers it Mount Meru, the center of the universe; Hinduism regards it as the abode of Lord Shiva; Bon religion believes it is home to 360 deities; and Jainism calls it the place of liberation for its founder.
"'Circumambulating it once can cleanse a lifetime of sins,' my Tibetan guide, Qunpei, told me. 'Circumambulating ten times can spare one from the suffering of hell in five hundred reincarnations, and one hundred times can lead to Buddhahood.' Although I am not a Buddhist, this cross-religious appeal made me want to experience its mysteries firsthand.
It was only when I truly stood at the foot of the sacred mountain that I understood this sense of holiness. Mount Kailash is distinctly different from the surrounding peaks; it stands like a colossal pyramid on the Ngari Plateau, its perpetually snow-capped summit shimmering with an ethereal glow in the sunlight. What's particularly peculiar is that the sunny side of the sacred mountain remains snow-covered year-round, while the back side is snow-free for most of the year, which is contrary to conventional natural phenomena.
02 The Kora Challenge, a Test of Body and Will
There are two kora routes: inner and outer. I chose the outer route, which is about 53 kilometers long and usually takes 2-3 days to complete. The highest point, Drolma La Pass, is nearly 5,700 meters above sea level.
The first day, from Darchen to Drirapuk Monastery, was a relatively gentle 20-kilometer journey. We walked along the Lha-chu Valley, with red cliffs on both sides, and the Chugu Monastery on the western slope was faintly visible. Along the way, I met several Indian pilgrims riding horses, with yak teams carrying their luggage. Although we couldn't speak each other's language, we exchanged "Tashi Delek," and smiles became our common language.
The second day was the real challenge – crossing Drolma La Pass. The altitude rapidly ascended from 5,100 meters to 5,700 meters, where the oxygen content in the air was only half that of the plains. I adopted a "slow pace, frequent rests" strategy, stopping to catch my breath every few dozen steps. My trekking poles became a lifesaver, saving at least 10% of my energy.
The most difficult part was "Hell Slope." I would grit my teeth and climb one slope, only to find another equally high slope out of sight. This cycle repeated many times, and my lungs felt like they were tearing. When I finally saw the prayer flags fluttering wildly at the pass, tears involuntarily welled up.
My Tibetan guide, Qunpei, pulled out some small fruits from his pocket and handed them to me: "These have been blessed by a lama; eat them and you won't fear altitude sickness." In this high-altitude region, faith manifests in the simplest ways.
03 The Philosophy of Life at the Foot of the Sacred Mountain
During the kora, I spent the night at the Xixiabangma Hotel near Drirapuk Monastery. This so-called "hotel" was actually just a two-story building, empty except for the beds.
In the evening, the north face of Mount Kailash was fully revealed, bathed in a golden glow by the setting sun. A group of Tibetan children gathered around, one girl with an Indian-style "tilak" on her forehead and turquoise earrings, spontaneously hugged my tired self. Her eyes were pure and curious. I took out all my chocolates and shared them with them. In that moment, I suddenly understood what unconditional giving meant.
Sangye Tenzin from Gangsha Village told me: "In the highlands, everything must be done slowly; that way, you actually go faster." This Tibetan man, with a perpetual smile on his face, lives in harmony with the mountains, becoming a philosopher who "hides in plain sight within the mountains."
I met pilgrims performing prostrations who needed three weeks to complete one kora. Compared to them, my two-day trek seemed so easy. An elder told me in broken Mandarin: "Circumambulating the mountain is not about conquering; it's about finding yourself."
04 Practical Tips for Preparing for the Kora
The best season for the kora is from May to October, with June to September being the most suitable. In winter, heavy snow blocks the mountain, and Drolma La Pass is covered in ice and snow.
A border permit is essential. You can apply for it in your household registration location or entrust a travel agency to handle it after arriving in Lhasa. For equipment, you'll need warm clothing, high-top hiking boots, trekking poles, sunscreen, etc. The temperature difference between day and night in the highlands is significant; it can be hot during the day but drop below freezing at night.
To cope with altitude sickness, in addition to acclimatizing in advance, you should "relax your mind; often, altitude sickness appears when you 'expect' it to." Headaches can be relieved with aspirin or Sanlitong.
If you lack physical strength, you can hire a porter in Darchen. The cost is about 60 yuan per day, but the price and service content need to be negotiated in advance.
After completing the kora, I looked back at Mount Kailash. The lingering glow of the sunset softly illuminated the summit, and an eagle circled in the sky before flying into the distance. I will never forget that scene.
Perhaps, as the locals say, for Tibetans, circumambulating the mountain is simply an instinct of life, as common as eating and drinking. This sacredness in the ordinary is the true charm of Mount Kailash.
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Show More ReviewsPilgrimage to Mount Kailash helped me find the answer. Only by letting go of your worries can you see what you need. Slow down and go slower, so that you can have more experiences and feelings in life, instead of having only one goal.