Qingdao hides a "time tunnel" that you won't want to leave once you step inside
Qingdao Badaguan in June: In the shadows of the plane tree leaves, the red tiles and the sea share their secret whispers
"Stand over here! Red tiles with the sea, this shot is perfect for social media!" Photographer Xiao Wang shouted, holding up his camera. The asphalt road in Badaguan was shaded into a green tunnel by French plane trees, with sunlight filtering through the leaves, casting golden patches on the red tiles of the German-style villas. A girl in a white dress stepped forward through the dappled light, her skirt brushing past the poppies by the roadside. The distant sound of waves was like someone humming a tune, and the salty breeze carried the woody scent of the old foreign houses, making you want to find a rattan chair to sit in and watch the clouds roll by all afternoon.
After wandering three afternoons in Badaguan, counting the fragments of sunlight through the plane tree leaves on Juyongguan Road, tracing the patterns of time on the spiral staircase of Huashilou, and counting the footprints of waves on the rocks at the Second Beach, I finally understood why people say, "Qingdao’s summer is half in the foam of beer and half in the shadows of Badaguan’s trees." The houses here are "mixed-blood": German castle spires wear Chinese tiles, Russian mansions have Qingdao porcelain by the fireplace, and even the courtyard walls are covered with French roses and local ivy. The roads here "change costumes": in spring, they float with crabapple blossoms; in autumn, ginkgo leaves fall; in June, the plane tree leaves just cover the sky, making walking feel like stepping into a green kaleidoscope. The sea here feels "close": just turn a corner from Shaoguan Road, and the white sand beach bursts into view, even the oyster shells on the rocks glisten—if you don’t come soon, once July’s tourists have warmed every path, finding a quiet corner under the plane trees to snap a photo of the red tiles might only be possible after 7 p.m.
🚶 Juyongguan Road: A play of light and shadow in the plane tree tunnel
"Don’t step on the bright spots! Stand in the shade so your face doesn’t reflect!" Xiao Wang pulled me into the shadows. The branches of the French plane trees on Juyongguan Road intertwined, weaving the sky into a green net. The red tile roofs of the German villas peeked through the leaves like islands floating on a green sea. An elderly couple sat on a bench by the road; the grandfather read the newspaper in Qingdao dialect, while the grandmother fanned the cat in her arms with a palm leaf fan. The cat’s tail brushed the wood grain of the bench, startling a butterfly resting on a poppy.
3 tips for "taking red tile photos without crowds"
· Sneak into the "alley behind Badaguan Small Chapel": Don’t squeeze onto Zhengyangguan Road! The red brick walls in the back alley are covered with roses, and at the corner, you can capture red tile roofs and the distant coastline. At 3 p.m., the sunlight slants warmly on the tiles. We spent half an hour there, only an ice cream vendor passed by, saying, "You really know how to find spots; tourists all crowd up front."
· Use a "straw hat as a prop": Don’t just hold up your phone! Put the straw hat on your head or hold it to block the sun; the photos look like a stroll through a European town. The girl in the white dress tried it; the hat covered half her face, and when the wind blew the hat strings fluttered. Xiao Wang took 20 shots in a row, saying, "This one could be a tourism promo photo."
· Wait until "the street cleaner finishes sweeping leaves": The road is cleanest at 8 a.m.! Leaves are piled under the tree roots, and the asphalt shines black, reflecting the plane tree shadows. A girl squatted on the freshly swept road scattering leaves to take photos and was told by the street cleaner, "Young lady, take care of the environment; it makes the photos look better."
🏰 Huashilou: Old stories on the spiral staircase
"Hold the railing and turn! Don’t stop!" Xiao Wang chased shots with his camera. The spiral staircase in Huashilou was carpeted in red, and the brass floral carvings on the handrail were polished shiny from touch. The second-floor window faced the Second Beach, where people in swimsuits took photos on the rocks. The waves crashed on the shore, sounding like they came from far away. The old clock in the corner ticked, and sunlight through the stained glass cast red and blue patches on the floor, like someone had spilled a paint palette.
2 tips for "not missing out when visiting old buildings"
· Choose "2 p.m. for entry": Don’t rush the morning session! Most tour groups come in the morning, making it noisy like a market. In the afternoon, it’s quieter, perfect for calmly watching the light and shadow on the stairs. We met an elderly lady living nearby who said, "This building wasn’t open before, now you can look around freely, but take your time; every stone on the wall has its own age."
· Listen to "the guide’s details": Don’t just take photos! There’s a "foundation stone" in the corner dated 1932. The guide said the building was made of granite and cobblestones, and even the window glass was imported from Germany. A young man ignored the guide and took photos of the wall for a long time, saying, "This wall looks like the one in my neighborhood," and an aunt nearby laughed, "You don’t get it, this is the taste of history."
🌊 Second Beach: The kiss of waves on the rocks
"Stand on the rocks! Here comes a wave!" Xiao Wang’s shout was drowned out by the sea. The June water barely covered ankles, cold as if just taken from the fridge. A girl in sandals squatted on the rocks, poking at small puddles left by the tide, where little crabs scurried sideways, making her scream and jump up. A sailboat quietly passed in the distance, its white sail drawing an arc against the blue sky. The umbrellas on the beach looked like colorful flowers.
1 secret for "safe tide chasing"
· Wear "non-slip hole shoes": Don’t go barefoot! Oyster shells on the rocks can cut your feet. Hole shoes protect against rocks and let water in and out. A young man barefoot stepped on the rocks and soon got a cut, blood dripping into the sea. A park patrol gave him a bandage, saying, "Every summer, about ten people get hurt like this."
🚶 One-day walking route (about 100 RMB per person)
· 9 a.m.: Enter Badaguan Scenic Area South Gate → Shoot plane tree light and shadow on Juyongguan Road (free, bring a straw hat) → Visit Huashilou (8.5 RMB ticket, listen to the guide’s history) → Check in at Princess Building (20 RMB ticket, great for Nordic-style photos).
· 12 p.m.: Eat seafood dumplings on Zhanshan Food Street (30 RMB/serving, the mackerel filling is freshest) → Buy a cup of Qingdao old yogurt (5 RMB/cup, refreshes the palate).
· 3 p.m.: Wade in the water at Second Beach (free, wear hole shoes) → Walk the coastline at Taipingjiao Park (free, wooden boardwalk perfect for strolling).
· 6 p.m.: Watch the light show at May Fourth Square (free, find a good viewing spot early) → Before leaving, buy a bag of Qingdao beer (10 RMB/bottle, specialty stores can pack it).
June tips to avoid pitfalls
· Don’t buy "pearl necklaces from street vendors": They claim to be "Qingdao specialties," but they’re plastic! An aunt bought a necklace for 200 RMB, only to find it fake and angrily threw it in the trash. For souvenirs, go to supermarkets; dried seafood and beer are reliable.
· Don’t "block wedding photo shoots": June is peak wedding photo season. If you encounter a shoot, wait until they finish before passing. Don’t push through; photographers might snap, "Please move, just one more shot."
When leaving, Xiao Wang’s camera held over 300 photos, and my straw hat still had plane tree leaves stuck to it. The ice cream vendor said, "Autumn is best; the ginkgo leaves on Juyongguan Road turn golden like foil, even better for photos than June." The girl in the white dress flipped through her phone and suddenly said, "The red tiles and sea here feel soaked in time, even the wind moves slowly, making it hard to leave."
Now, open Trip.com to book a homestay; in June, you can still find old foreign houses near Badaguan with small courtyards, where you can be woken by birdsong on the plane tree leaves in the morning. The light and shadow of the plane tree tunnel are waiting for you to step in, the stairs of Huashilou are waiting for you to climb. If you don’t come soon, when July’s tourists fill the seaside rocks, finding a quiet spot to watch waves kiss the rocks might mean squeezing through crowds.
Other visitors' reviews of Huashilou House
Show More ReviewsHuashilou, 800 square meters, was funded by Russian newspaper company Laibiti and designed by Chinese designer Liu Yaochen. It was built in 1930 and is located on the cape at the southern end of the Badaguan scenic spot. Huashilou has unique scenery and beautiful environment. The exterior wall is built of granite, and the top of the tower is a parapet. It is a European castle-style building that integrates various Western architectural art styles. The windows in the house are stained glass, and the blue sea outside the window (that is, Qingdao Second Bathing Beach) is pleasant. It is very colorful for taking photos. Many national leaders and literati have stayed here. Huashilou is one of the main attractions of Badaguan.