Trip Gourmet Awards 2023

Gastro Esthetics DaDong

A store that focuses on seafood, the store environment is tall, black looks high. The service is still very good, after all, the service has to keep up with the environment and price. Dong Shi onion roasted sea cucumber, one of the signature dishes in the store, the selected materials are really good, the taste is very good, the soft oysters are a little strong, and the side dishes are also good-looking and delicious. June drunk crabs are also very recommended, and the value of finger meals is also very high.

一家主打海鲜的店，店里环境高大上，黑色显得高规格。服务还是很不错的，毕竟服务得跟的上环境和价格。董士葱烧海参，店里招牌菜之一，选的材料确实不错，口感很好，软糯加点点劲道，配菜也好看也好吃。六月醉蟹也非常值得推荐，手指餐的颜值也是非常高了。

人称&ldquo;大师傅&rdquo;的大董老师应圈中好友陈黄鱼先生所托，精心设计了一席以黄鱼为主题的欢聚宴，全国各地美食圈的翘楚巨擘开年欢聚在大董美食学院里。南新仓&ldquo;美-大董海参店&rdquo;2楼的大董美食学院堪称中国民间饮食文化交流的圣地，业内同仁以到此打卡为荣，而在此品鉴美食，更能领略一番大师傅的创新之道。创新在当下成为一个热门词汇，但为什么要创新如何去创新，却依然争议未定，有人把创新当做业绩考核的方式，而在大董老师这样的行尊泰斗这里，创新又变成了一种常态。不仅仅是运营发展的需求，也是一个人不断实现自我迭代的修为。许多人把创新当做了同质的复制或者简单的嫁接，而我以为，真正的创新是要以一种认知方法论的突破为内核，所有的形式不过是&ldquo;真意&rdquo;的外延而已。大师傅的黄鱼宴开篇是一道&ldquo;傅拥军牡丹黄鱼生&rdquo;，据大师傅介绍，这是他在傅拥军先生的宴席上吃到了一道达配潮汕普宁豆酱的鱼生，获得了灵感启发，于是用红菜头汁调染爽韧的黄鱼脊肉，演绎出了一道国色天香的鱼生。大师傅急公好义，乐于提携同行，更尊重业内的知识创新，菜名冠于傅拥军先生的名字，便是一种对创作的价值尊重。师承经典鲁菜的大师傅为黄鱼宴研发的两道菜却颇具江南的风韵，一道是醪糟蒸黄鱼，另一道则是借鉴了安徽臭鳜鱼的做法，酥炸半发酵黄鱼。内地与沿海，塞北与江南，常常被认为是味觉无法逾越的天堑。而大董师傅这些年以一种躬身入局的姿态，多次走访东南沿海和江南水乡，在中国意境菜的&ldquo;董氏美学&rdquo;里，大漠孤烟与小桥流水，同书一卷。而当晚真正把我惊艳的是一道&ldquo;蓝纹芝士臭鳜鱼汁烧长海鲍鱼&rdquo;。这道菜真正做到了&ldquo;破相&rdquo;与&ldquo;出圈&rdquo;。新鲜鲍鱼味道清淡，大师傅的妙处在于把蓝纹芝士和臭鳜鱼这&ldquo;东西双臭&rdquo;共冶一炉。所谓的&ldquo;臭&rdquo;，不过是蛋白质发酵过程中分解氨基酸时所释放的一些氨味，倘若驾驭得当，所谓的臭，不过是&ldquo;香&rdquo;的另一重镜像。但长期以来。我们只在西餐的芝士拼盘上可以邂逅让人&ldquo;爱憎分明&rdquo;的蓝纹芝士，把西餐奶酪入馔中餐，这需要的不仅仅是食材特性的认知，更需要一种审美情趣的拿捏得当。乳制品的氨基酸分子和鳜鱼不同，多种氨基酸的复合入味，不仅使鲍鱼的味型丰富了许多，更神奇地将鲜味放大了数十倍。我喜欢这道菜的复杂深邃，激赏那种敢于打破形式障眼法的创新。美食的真意，天下大同，美美与共。

The big Dong teacher, known as the &quot;master&quot;, should be entrusted by his friend Mr. Chen Huangyu, carefully designed a yellowfish-themed party, and the leaders of the food circles across the country gathered in the big Dong food college. The Dadong Food College on the 2nd floor of Nanxincang &quot;Mei-Dadong Sea cucumber Shop&quot; is a holy place for Chinese folk food and cultural exchanges. The industry colleagues are proud to punch in here, and taste the food here, and they can appreciate the innovation of the master. Innovation has become a popular word at the moment, but why innovation and how to innovate is still controversial, some people regard innovation as a way of performance appraisal, and here, innovation has become a normal. Not only the needs of operation development, but also a person constantly realizes self-iteration repair. Many people regard innovation as homogeneous reproduction or simple grafting, and I believe that real innovation is to be cored in a breakthrough in cognitive methodology, all forms are merely extensions of &ldquo;true intentions.&rdquo; The opening of the master&#39;s yellow croaker banquet is a &quot;Fu Yongjun peony yellow croaker raw&quot;, according to the master, this is his dinner at Mr. Fu Yongjun ate a fish raw with Chaoshan Puning bean sauce, got inspiration, so with red vegetable head juice dyed refreshing and tough yellow croaker spine, The fish of a national color and Tianxiang was deduced. The master is anxious and righteous, willing to carry his colleagues, and more respect the knowledge innovation in the industry. The name of the dish is named after Mr. Fu Yongjun, which is a value respect for creation. The master of the classic Lu cuisine of Shicheng is the two dishes developed for the yellow croaker banquet but quite the charm of the south of the Yangtze River, one is the steamed yellow croaker, the other is to learn from the practice of Anhui stinky croaker, fried semi-fermented yellow croaker. Inland and coastal, Saibei and Jiangnan, often considered insurmountable taste of the sky. Master Dadong has visited the southeast coast and Jiangnan water town many times in a bowing attitude these years. In the &quot;Dong&#39;s aesthetics&quot; of Chinese artistic conception cuisine, the desert is lonely smoke and the bridge flowing water, the same book. What really surprised me that night was a &quot;blue cheese stinky cod sauce roasted sea abalone&quot;. This dish really did &quot;break the scene&quot; and &quot;out of the circle&quot;. The fresh abalone tastes light, and the master&#39;s beauty is that the blue cheese and stinky cod are &quot;stuffy&quot; together. The so-called &quot;odor&quot; is just some of the ammonia flavor released by the decomposition of amino acids during the fermentation process of protein. If properly managed, the so-called smell is just another mirror image of &quot;odor&quot;. But for a long time. We can only make people &quot;love and hate&quot; blue cheese on the western cheese platter, and put Western cheese into Chinese food, which requires not only the recognition of the characteristics of the ingredients, but also an aesthetic taste. The amino acid molecules of dairy products are different from that of salmon. The compound flavor of a variety of amino acids not only enriches the flavor type of abalone, but also magically magnifies the flavor dozens of times. I like the complexity of this dish and appreciate the innovation that dares to break the formal barrier. The true meaning of food, the world is the same, beautiful and common.

我对南新仓的这家&ldquo;大董&rdquo;颇有感情，这是我认识大师傅的地方，那时候的大师傅还是一头飘逸的长发，宛如足球明星，后来又在这里拜访了惊艳不已的&ldquo;大董美食学院&rdquo;，这一次&ldquo;大董&rdquo;的升级是期待已久的升华，这当中包含着的是一种从业的信念，一种对时光的承诺。这一夜的&ldquo;大雪宴&rdquo;秉承了&ldquo;大董菜系&rdquo;因应时节的文化传统，几道据说还在内部研讨论证的新菜，让我回味不已。作为&ldquo;大董海参店&rdquo;，海参自然是店里的压轴主打。虽然南派粤菜擅长做各种海鲜干货，但在海参的烹饪上，以鲁菜为代表的北派师傅更能彰显功力底蕴，师承鲁菜泰斗的大师傅烹饪海参自然已得心传，在之前的多次大董聚会上，少不了一份浓油赤酱的&ldquo;伙食海参&rdquo;。然而这次端在我面前的却是一份素颜清雅的&ldquo;牛油果山葵白卤水海参&rdquo;。这一道海参没有传统滋味那种咸鲜甜的饱和冲击，却能感受到一种草本的芬芳轻盈和静谧。一个真正在做菜的人，不是在烹饪食材，而是在表述自己的心境。更适合搭配香槟的素颜海参，让我的脑海里浮现出四个字：繁花若素。&ldquo;膏脂高白鲑&rdquo;看上去是潮汕鱼饭的精装版，但细细品味，顿觉别有乾坤。潮汕的鱼饭用的都是海鱼，这一道来自西域的高白鲑却是冰川水滋养的淡水鱼。大师傅经年笔耕不辍，我以为文化的符号密码都隐藏在文字里，这道菜的破解线索便是在&ldquo;膏脂&rdquo;二字当中。通常的鱼饭我们只觉其味鲜，偶遇冬季乌头之类才有机会领略那种&ldquo;凝脂若膏&rdquo;的丰腴肥美，大师傅的&ldquo;膏脂&rdquo;二字所指，是烹饪环节的微处理，每一块鱼肉都以一片肉冻进行封印，入口如啫喱般婉转鲜滑，这才是对吃鱼饭的精气神提炼。&ldquo;大雪宴&rdquo;上的一道&ldquo;醪糟蒸岱衢族大黄鱼卷&rdquo;别有深意，江南的黄酒讲究一个&ldquo;逢冬造&rdquo;，糟香的穿透力不仅能收敛鱼肉的肥腻，更能伴生一种持久的幽香。真正的硬菜是一道&ldquo;秃黄油大排翅&rdquo;，这道菜的奢华不仅仅表现在三五万元的食材成本，绝妙在生拆了六十多只大闸蟹做成的新鲜秃黄油，大师傅强调了秃黄油的鲜尤于现场生拆为美。新鲜的蟹黄蟹膏除了极鲜，还藏着一丝清甜。细品大师傅的秃黄油大排翅，清晰可辨地咀嚼到了大闸蟹的白膏，有着怡人的黏糯，也吃出了心仪的那一份清甜，小确幸成了大满足。大师傅的新菜有着不拘一格的挥洒自如，中国意境菜不是标榜，还是一种自我鞭策，餐饮的美学并非堆砌，而是思辨。

I have a lot of feelings for this &quot;Dadong&quot; in Nanxincang. This is where I know the master. At that time, the master was still a long hair, like a football star. Later, he visited the amazing &quot;Dadong Food Academy&quot; here. This upgrade of &quot;Da Dong&quot; is a long-awaited sublimation, which contains a belief in practice, a commitment to time. This night&#39;s &quot;big snow banquet&quot; adhering to the &quot;big Dong cuisine&quot; in response to the cultural tradition of the season, several new dishes are said to be still discussing the certificate internally, which makes me feel aftertaste. As a &quot;big Dong sea cucumber shop&quot;, sea cucumber is naturally the main focus of the store. Although the southern Cantonese cuisine is good at making various seafood dry goods, in the cooking of sea cucumbers, the northern master represented by Lu cuisine can better show the heritage of strength. The master of the master of the master of the cuisine of Lu cuisine Taidou has naturally been passed on. At the previous gatherings of many big Dongs, A &quot;food sea cucumber&quot; with thick oil red sauce. But this time in front of me is a plain-looking &quot;avocado halibut sea cucumber&quot;. This sea cucumber has no traditional taste of salty sweet saturation impact, but can feel a herbal fragrance light and quiet. A person who is really cooking is not cooking the ingredients, but expressing his own mood. More suitable for champagne-colored sea cucumbers, let my mind come up with four words: flowery Ruosu. &quot;paste high white oyster&quot; looks like a hardcover version of the tide fish rice, but tastes carefully, and feels unique. The tidal fish rice is used for sea fish, this high white oyster from the western region is a freshwater fish nourished by glacier water. The master has been ploughing for years. I thought that the symbols and passwords of the culture were hidden in the text. The clue to the crack of this dish was in the word &quot;paste&quot;. Usually, we only feel that the fish rice is fresh, and we have the opportunity to enjoy the rich and fatty &quot;ret-like cream&quot; in winter. The master&#39;s word &quot;ret-like cream&quot; refers to the microprocessing of the cooking link. Every fish meat is sealed with a piece of meat frozen, and the entrance is as smooth as a sputum. This is the essence of eating fish rice. &quot;The snow feast&quot; on a &quot;steamed rice yellow croaker roll&quot; has a deep meaning, Jiangnan yellow wine pays attention to a &quot;winter made&quot;, the penetration of the fragrant can not only converge the fatty fish, but also accompany a long-lasting fragrance. The real hard dish is a &quot;bald butter row wings&quot;, this dish&#39;s luxury is not only reflected in the cost of 35,000 yuan of ingredients, wonderful in raw dismantling more than 60 hairy crabs made of fresh bald butter, the master emphasized that bald butter fresh on the spot is especially beautiful. In addition to the fresh crab yellow crab paste, there is a trace of sweetness hidden. The bald butter of the master&#39;s fine taste, the white paste of the hairy crab, has a pleasant sticky, and also ate the sweetness of the favorite, Xiao is fortunate to be a big satisfaction. Master&#39;s new dishes have an eclectic style of sprinkling, Chinese artistic conception dishes are not advertised, or a self-flagellation, the aesthetics of catering are not stacked, but thinking.

it&rsquo;s a great restaurant very expensive though. Went there in 2019

VERY nice place, enjoy it every time when i go there

很不错，服务也很周到。服务生态度也很好，给人很亲切的感觉。不错

Very good, the service is also very thoughtful. The service ecology is also very good, giving people a very friendly feeling. good

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