Above the Snow Line: Pressing the Pause Button on Time at Jinshanling Great Wall
At five in the morning, car headlights cut through the darkness of the Huairou mountains. The weather forecast on my phone showed the temperature at Jinshanling was minus fifteen degrees Celsius. I wrapped my down jacket tighter, watching the bare branches flash past the window, recalling the innkeeper’s advice from last night: “After snow, the Great Wall looks like a white jade dragon—beautiful, but very slippery.”
Mountain Road: Gradually Turning Silver and White
By the time I arrived at the scenic area, dawn was just breaking. The ticket cost 65 yuan, with an additional 10 yuan for the shuttle bus. Inside the vehicle were several photography enthusiasts, their camera bags larger than their luggage. On the winding mountain road, the snow grew thicker. The driver said it had snowed again last night, the third snowfall this year. Turning the last bend, the Great Wall suddenly appeared on the ridge—not the golden or grayish tones I imagined, but pure white, like a model built from icing sugar.
Entering from the Xiaojinshan Tower entrance, the steps had turned into snowy slopes. Staff were spreading anti-slip sand, reminding everyone to hold onto the railings. I stepped onto the first step; the snow was below my ankle, crunching with a familiar “crack” sound. This sound was especially clear in the mountains, overpowering all other noises.
The Wall: A Sculpture of Snow
The moment I stepped onto the wall, I stopped. The scene before me took my breath away—the wall stretched endlessly like a white carpet, with rounded snow mounds piled on the battlements, resembling freshly steamed buns. The arrow towers had turned into snow houses, their window holes like black eyes. Enemy towers in the distance appeared faintly through the morning mist, like mirages.
I walked along the west line toward Shalingkou. The snow softened every edge. The gaps between bricks were filled with snow, arrow slits half-covered, and even the usually sharp edges of the horse path had gentle curves. At a corner, I saw tree branches casting shadows on the wall, deep blue against the white snow, like a woodblock print.
Sunlight slowly climbed the ridge. At 7:30 a.m., the first ray hit Qilin Tower. Golden light illuminated the snow on the roof, which reflected a colorful halo. Two photographers pressed their shutters simultaneously; one murmured, “I’ve waited three years for this shot.”
Details: The Textures of Ice and Snow
Looking closely at the bricks, I realized the snow wasn’t just a simple cover. Snow was thicker in the brick recesses and thinner on the protrusions, forming a natural relief. Some bricks still bore wind-blown patterns, like desert sand dunes. Inside an arrow tower, looking out through an arrow slit, the snow’s reflected light lit up the stone chamber, revealing clear inscriptions on the wall—“Spring of the fifth year of Wanli, defensive post.”
The most stunning sight was the icicles. Below the wall’s drainage holes, icicles hung from the battlements to the ground, some nearly two meters long. When sunlight passed through, the icicles refracted rainbow colors. A little girl reached out to touch one but was gently pulled back by her mother: “Let it hang there nicely.”
Walking: Above Time
The further I walked, the fewer footprints I saw. By the time I reached Houchuankou, only an elderly couple and I remained. The old man carried a hiking pole, stepping steadily. He said he came every year after snow: “The snow covers all modern traces, and the Great Wall returns to its original form.”
Indeed, snow has a purifying power. It covers repaired cement, graffiti, and all modern interventions. At this moment, the Great Wall probably looked much like it did four hundred years ago when Qi Jiguang restored it. Standing atop the Black Tower, I gazed around—the mountains rolled like frozen waves, the Great Wall the white crest. Only the wind’s sound filled the air, occasionally interrupted by a crow’s caw.
Descending: Bringing Back a Piece of Snow
By the time I returned, it was nearly noon. The sun was strong, and the wall began to drip water. I picked up a piece of wall brick wrapped in snow, cold enough to sting my hand. On the way down, I met tourists heading up. When they asked how it was, I said, “Bring anti-slip covers; it’s worth the ticket.”
Before leaving the scenic area, I paused at an information board. It said the Jinshanling Great Wall stretches 10.5 kilometers, with 67 enemy towers, built in the first year of the Ming Longqing era. These numbers gained weight after seeing it with my own eyes.
Jinshanling Great Wall Snow Viewing Guide
Basic Information
Jinshanling Great Wall is located in Luanping County, Hebei Province, about a 2-hour drive from Beijing. Open from 6:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. (off-season). Tickets cost 65 yuan; cable car one-way is 40 yuan. The scenic area may close temporarily after snow; it’s recommended to confirm before departure.
Transportation Options
- Self-drive: Navigate to “Jinshanling Great Wall Parking Lot,” exit at Simatai on Jingcheng Expressway
- Public transport: Direct buses from Dongzhimen bus hub, but may suspend service in snow
- Shuttle bus: From the scenic area gate to the hiking entrance; recommended in snowy weather
Snow Day Gear
- Essentials: Crampons/anti-slip covers (sold at the foot of the mountain, 20-30 yuan), hiking poles, gloves
- Clothing: Windproof and waterproof jacket, warm mid-layer, quick-dry base layer
- Others: Thermos, high-calorie snacks, sunglasses (to prevent snow blindness)
Best Routes
- Regular route: Scenic area gate → Brick battlement → Shalingkou → Houchuankou (about 2.5 hours one way)
- Highlight route: Cable car to Xiaojinshan Tower → Qilin Tower → General’s Tower (suitable for moderate fitness)
- Photography route: Brick battlement → Black Tower → Wangjing Tower (best for sunrise shots)
Photography Tips
- Qilin Tower sunrise and Black Tower sea of clouds are classic spots
- Snow reflects strongly; reduce exposure compensation by 1-2 stops
- Shooting from inside arrow towers outward creates natural frames
Safety Reminders
- Some sections may be icy after snow; walk on well-trodden paths
- Temperatures drop sharply after 3 p.m.; recommended to descend before then
- No supply points on the wall; bring your own water and food
Nearby Experiences
- Accommodation: Boutique inns at the foot of the wall, with traditional heated kang beds
- Dining: Farmhouses outside the scenic area offer iron pot stews and wild vegetables
- Combined tours: Pair with Gubei Water Town to experience northern water town winter charm
Looking back as I left, the Great Wall shimmered with scattered light in the afternoon sun. This snowfall showed me a Great Wall not of postcard grandeur or textbook history, but a more essential existence—a part of the mountain, a form of time. When snow covers all spatial and temporal markers, the Great Wall is just a ridge, the ridge just the earth, and the earth just a patch of snow on this spinning planet.
What unexpected landscapes have you encountered in the snow? Have you ever found a familiar place completely transformed after a snowfall? Feel free to share your winter encounters.