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Fork in the Road

Langmusi: A Town, Two Provinces, Three Ethnic Groups

Langmusi, is a temple, but not just a temple, it is also a small town located at the junction of Sichuan and Gansu. A small town, divided into two by the Bailong River, belongs to Gansu and Sichuan provinces; a temple, divided into Gansu Temple and Sichuan Temple; in the middle of the two temples, there is also a mosque; Han, Tibetan, Hui, three ethnic groups live together in this small town. Langmusi has been a sacred place for Tibetan Buddhism in Sichuan, Gansu, Qinghai and Tibet to worship the Black Tiger Goddess since ancient times. The history of temple construction here has been thousands of years. The meaning of Langmusi is 'Tiger Cave Fairy Temple'. Langmusi is a Gelugpa monastery of Tibetan Buddhism, divided into two parts, one is Sichuan Dachang Langmusi, also called Gerdi Temple, and the other is Gansu Saichisi, the two temples are across the river, less than a hundred meters apart. The town is very small, everywhere is typical Tibetan architecture, Hada, prayer flags, Tibetan-style painted beams can be seen everywhere. The distant Red Rock Cliff surrounds the town, tall and sharp, under the contrast of the surrounding green grassland, like a red wall guarding this land. It takes about ten minutes to walk to Sichuan Temple. The entrance is very simple, with two lamas in charge of selling tickets. Following the entrance, the low Tibetan-style red houses near the entrance are the monks' rooms. In the afternoon, there are not many monks in the temple, very quiet. The biggest Buddhist event of Gerdi Temple every year is the Buddha Viewing Festival on the 13th day of the first month, the huge Buddha image scroll is slowly unfolded on the Buddha Viewing Platform along the hillside, very magnificent, unfortunately we can't see such a magnificent scene now. The Great Hall of Sutras across from the Buddha Viewing Platform, with red walls and golden roofs, is solemn and magnificent. In front of the hall, the butter lamps are always bright, the Dharma is always present, and the Sanskrit sounds in the hall are quiet and solemn. Across the Bailong River Road is Gansu Temple, where you can step across two provinces. Saichisi is built along the mountain, at this altitude, the slope is still a bit challenging. As soon as you enter the gate, a golden-domed white tower stands tall, this is where people turn the scriptures daily. With the mountain, the grandeur and magnificence of Saichisi are more prominent. Golden dome, white wall, red window, under the sunshine, glittering, layer upon layer, don't know how many layers. Compared to the Sichuan Temple across the river, the temples are all very magnificent and exquisite. Saichisi was founded in 1748, and has a history of more than 250 years. After more than 200 years, with the careful protection and continuous expansion of successive Saichisi Living Buddhas, the Golden Hall, Buddha Hall, Buddha Palace, and monks' houses are well-arranged, large in scale, and Saichisi has also become the Tibetan Buddhist temple in the Duoma Tibetan area, second only to Ta'er Temple and Labrang Temple. From the highest Buddha Hall, you can overlook the panoramic view of Langmusi Town and the Sichuan Temple across the river, as well as the distant Red Rock Cliff and snow-capped mountains, can't help but sigh at the insignificance of human beings, and can't help but sigh at the greatness of human beings.
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*Created by local travelers and translated by TripGenie.
Posted: Feb 7, 2024
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